Prada showed scuba trouser suits, high-waisted dresses and coats in foam jersey material and tweed, rendered in bright colour gelato combinations for this elegant, ladylike collection.  

Unlike most of the oversized clothes other designers showed, here dresses and coats hit the knee and even trousers were cropped and slightly flared.  When there were sleeves on dresses, they were short and accompanied by over-the-elbow length gloves which still ensured full coverage.  Of course there was embellishment, this time bows and strips of fur were affixed to the garments together with oversized, plastic flower pins and crystal embroideries.

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The Just Cavalli collection was modern yet feminine.  Silhouettes were slim and slightly flared for miniskirts or flowing and open for dresses.  They showed velvet coats with wide lapels and feather embroidery.  Knits were made from untreated wool threaded through with vanisè lurex and dressed with a pavé of micro-studs and jacquard with coppered plaques.  Bright optical-art prints also featured on outerwear and trousers.  Warm shades such as rust, lead grey, mustard and deep blood red added depth to the line.

Cavalli also showed bags in nappa, velvet or applied ostrich in three different sizes and the models almost exclusively wore ankle boots with architectural elements in suede, pony or croc print in plain or patchwork colourways.

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Inspired by pure geometry and experimental volumes, Karl Lagerfeld and Sylvia Venturini Fendi showed padded and quilted faux-utilitarian garments with structure.  The quilting theme was continued throughout the collection with most pieces being an amalgamation of more than one type of fabric: huge leather patch pockets were attached to skirts, coats had strips of leather or fur affixed to the hem or collar.  

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Stella Jean, the mistress of mixed patterns, looked to the East with this collection.  With oversized coats (hemlines dragged on the floor), and bell-shaped skirts Jean returned to her use of pattern and imagery, this time showing images and tools from Indian barbershops together with Hindu religious iconography.  The rainbow-hued fabrics looked rich and sumptuous and were fortified by the addition of pompons and tassels.

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Anya Hindmarch has a history of repurposing iconic items and using them in her designs.  A few seasons ago (before Karl did it) she raided the supermarket to bring us bags and accessories based on the familiar food items like cereal boxes.  Now, she has mined the universal symbols of transportation and safety for this collection.

The clean, graphic lines of the icons work in some, but not all, instances.  We disliked the unfortunate placement of some of the patches over the models' crotches, and the highly literal interpretation of certain other looks (stop = red and go = green) but the imagery works on the bags and clutches for the most part.

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A visually interesting presentation called the 'Survive' collection from Danielle Romeril who showed quilted wraps and coats, oversized dresses made of flocked lace or corded velvet and a scalloped trim.  The clothes represented her view of a dystopian future and were bound together with strips of leather using the Odoshi technique more commonly used to bind samurai armour.

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Voluminous dressing from Emilia Wickstead who showed long dresses and pantsuits and belted, sleeveless tunics in blue crepe, grey tweed or printed silk.  The largely conservative collection was punctuated by the odd plunging neckline and shiny leather outerwear.

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A 1930s vibe from Jasper Conran where the models walked down a runway that was strewn with autumnal leaves.  

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Mary Katrantzou showed fit-and-flare shapes, streamlined shifts and bodices and damask coats trimmed in intarsia mink and Swarovski crystals in bright primary colours.  She loaded up on texture - from fringe to eyelash sequins to cellophane ruffles - and used new materials for decorating clothes: foam and spiked plastic more commonly used in the automotive industry.  The result was one of the more interesting and innovative collections of the week. 

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Curving lines and black bands adorned the clothes at David Koma who sent a graphic collection out for AW2015.  Streamlined, minimalist and futuristic bright knits and reinforced fabrics were adorned with embroidery and crystals.  Hemlines were either above-the-knee or slashed to provide a glimpse of leg.  

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The curving, sinuous lines of a board game wend its way over the colourful designs of Peter Pilotto.  Traditional games such as Snakes and Ladders and Connect 4 provided the initial inspiration for the collection which consisted of structured separates and dresses, beautiful trenches and coats.  The bright patterns and embellishments provided a graphic, modern pop of colour on white or black backgrounds.  

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Exposed stitches and basting work act as minimalist embellishment in this collection from J JS Lee which also had quilting and faux fur adornment.

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Origami-like pleats and folds that somehow managed to stay close to the body and touches of fur and leather made for a sophisticated and minimalist collection from Jean-Pierre Braganza.  With a subdued palette of aubergine, camel and forest green the collection was saved from taking itself too seriously by the sci-fi motifs that adorned some of the tops and dresses. 

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More 1970s influences on the runway, this time from Roksanda Ilincic who almost exclusively showed midi lengths on both skirts and trousers.  Inspired by the look of a forest in autumn, clothes had deconstructed edges and were made from tapestry fabric with an abstract, wave pattern in appropriate colours for the era.  Again, fur featured in a big way on dresses and coats, many of which were cinched at the waist with a simple black belt decorated with an oversized silver buckle.  

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A mixed collection from Bora Aksu as the show opened disappointingly with several shapeless, shiny blue looks, but later on improved with more intricately worked (perhaps even over-designed) pieces with flower motifs which were interesting.  Overall however, the collection felt more spring-like than autumnal.

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Architecture, rainbows, futuristic manga cartoons and My Little Pony all provided the inspiration at Fyodor Golan.

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The circus is in town with this youthful collection from Red Valentino where fairies and strong men, acrobats and dancers adorn shearling coats, circle skirts, bags and even platform shoes.  There was a range of options from mini to maxi dress and skirts, mixed prints (animal and floral) as well as fur which is becoming ubiquitous for this season.

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Modish, a-line shapes and raw, unfinished edges from Francesco Costa at Calvin Klein. Coats with oversized buttons, exaggerated collars and cuffs were made in black needle-punched calf hair and in blush patchwork shearling.  Keyhole necklines and elongated leather yokes provided interest on jumpsuits and dresses.

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Unabashedly pretty clothes from Marc Jacobs who mined past collections to obtain inspiration for this one including trompe l’oeil, gender transposition and embellishment.  Nothing here was simple or straightforward, instead clothes were either jewelled, embroidered or sequinned and covered in fur, brocade and  shearling.

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The clothes were slashed and patched at Proenza Schouler where the collection was inspired by abstract expressionists of the midcentury New York School and in particular the work of Helen Frankenthaler.  

Beautiful coats and jackets in spotted calf and boiled felt which appeared to be peeling off the body were a reference to the splayed felt work of Robert Morris.  The clothes were rendered in tweed and shearling and featured strategically placed cutouts on dresses and oversized fishnet tights.  There appeared to be  an emphasis on the shoulder and vertical and horizontal lines dissected the body.  The final pieces definitely felt tribal with the strategic placement of fur tufts and cuffs as well as the clever use of grommets and embroideries.

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This 30th anniversary show was held on a football field at the Park Avenue Armory.  The collection was inspired very literally by football uniforms, and saw the models wearing spiked booties and collegiate sweaters adorned with varsity motifs.

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"Ease, comfort and classicism...filtered through a good dose of Modernism" is how the inspiration for this collection was described by designer Charles Elliott Harbison.  Clothes were gender-neutral and some pieces were shown on both male and female models.  Highlights of the collection included circle skirts made from men’s suiting fabrics, cashmere sweaters embellished with fox fur and sequin appliqués, patchwork trenches and cotton blouses with tails.

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Pretty, hippie chic from Anna Sui whose models were the epitome of the modern festival muse.   With much layering of caftans, tunics and fur, her inspiration was obviously derived from Nordic culture and in particular the Vikings.  

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Electric shock from Milly where sculptural shapes in prismatic hues were a nod to postmodernism.

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Painterly stripes?  Checks?  Squares?  It was a tad difficult to figure out what exactly was the inspiration for this graphic collection from Band of Outsiders but we liked it all the same. 

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The Blonds sent fierce Amazonian superheroes in bodysuits down the runway with this homage to movies and directors such as Alejandro Jodorowsky and Stanley Kubrick.

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American sportswear at its finest from Micael Kors.  Luxurious knits, wool, tweed and brocade were adorned with fur and embellishments.  Belted double-breasted jackets and coats were interspersed with midi dresses and fur collars and wraps.

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The models at the Delpozo show walked through a surreal, stark white forest and provided a striking contrast amongst the branches.  While the backdrop was barren, the clothes and shoes were adorned with forest elements of leaves and flowers which were intended to combine the colourful palette of Australian artist Rhys Lee with Russian painter Andrey Remnev’s modern interpretation of the Pre-Raphaelite spirit.  Shapes were voluminous and structured giving an architectural effect.

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Boss showed shift dresses and coats with simple silhouettes and a structured military feel.  Feminine elements were added by cinched waists, subtle shine and tonal stripes.

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Woodland touches and her ubiquitous bright pink grounded in black and cream make for a fun but sophisticated collection from from Kate Spade which was inspired by the books of Roald Dahl.  The fairytale continues with a near literal interpretation of little red riding hood, fox and owl imagery.

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We seem to be reviewing all of the 1970s-inspired collections including this one from Karen Walker whose accessory game (read: sunglasses) continues to be strong.

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We're living our lives in monochrome at the moment and so we really appreciate Vera Wang's predominantly black and white collection.

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We always think it's a little cheeky that J.Crew shows at fashion week, but the styling is always so good, it's a fun - if not cutting edge or trendsetting - collection to review. 

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Cozy cable knits and sweaters in this volcanic collection from A Détacher which was inspired by the works of Elena Ferrante. 

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Noon by Noor's elegant, muted collection has its focus on clean lines, oversized shapes and unique textures.  The palette of slate grey, aubergune, ermine purple, navy, black and white reinforced the minimalist sensibility while oversized jewels on collars and jackets and floral sequins on skirts and tops added shine and colour.  While the collection exuded femininity, it was saved from being overly so by the masculine two-toned brogues and ankle boots worn by the models which provided the necessary balance. 

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One of our problems with Tracy Reese's collections in the past has been that they often come across as less than cohesive and more like a disparate collection of clothes. We're not sure that she overcame this problem with this edgy, street-wise collection, but we like what is on offer. 

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Prabal Gurung sent a subtly sophisticated collection down the runway which included chevron details, delicate beading and sheer overlays. 

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Distressed, unfinished hems and longer lengths characterised this modish collection from Edun which  included leather coats and tunics, wide, cropped trousers as well as mixed material a-line dresses. 

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Subtle sparkle and shine and a touch of sheer pleating soften boxy shapes and rounded shoulders at DKNY.  The models tramped down the runway in platform creepers while jeweled panels and lapels added glamour to tweed and herringbone. 

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Image | Imaxtree
We really regret not making the effort to brave the -12°C temperatures last night on what was apparently the coldest day in New York this year to view the Parkchoonmoo show in person. The collection was completely on point for the prevailing conditions however, and featured lots of beautiful, slouchy cocoon coats and sweaters and clean, modern lines. 

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High shine from Dion Lee where the clothes were slashed and wrapped giving an unique ribbon-like effect on trousers and dresses.

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Derek Lam showed long-line silhouettes with cozy woolen coats, sweaters and tunics over trousers.  The 1970s were evident again and the colour-scheme was typical of the era with browns, mustards, yellows and greens predominating. 

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Lacoste took a retrospective look at the line and in particular played homage to founder Rene who was one of the first to see the potential sportswear could have on fashion and lifestyle. His image popped up in graphics on the clothes and direct references to the design house's tennis roots formed the printed slogans.  The collection definitely had a distinct 1970s feel to it and the male models were styled to look like Swedish tennis player Björn Borg, complete with long hair and headbands. 

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Held at the Salon at Lincoln Centre, this young and fun collection by Charlotte Ronson for AW2015 which was presided over by her DJ sister Samantha on the turntables, was a play on 1960s sportswear construction. 

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This presentation was held amongst the glitter, gold and glitz of the bar at the Top of the Standard hotel where the designers continued forge their the relationship with that establishment having previously designed the classic hostesses' uniforms. 

The small but chic collection was warmly appreciated by those in attendance. The clothes were inspired by Scottish menswear and were made up mainly of easy dresses and separates in soft, draping material including silk blends, tweeds and tartans. The palette consisted of warm neutrals made from prints specifically developed with designer Johanna Michel based on traditional Scottish motifs such as distorted tartans and abstract Argyles.  

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Pops of navy, goldenrod and Pantone's colour of the year Marsala, feature strongly in Katie Ermillio's collection for AW2015 where the longer lengths and lace overlays that have been showing up consistently on the runways were given a sophisticated edge.  Ermillio manages to keep the sheer look more ladylike than trendy by rendering it in navy and adding tailoring. 

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High on drama with a soft muted palette, Gary Graham showed beautiful textural, intricate clothes.


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Image | Getty Images
New York Fashion Week kicks off this week and this season we are pleased to announce that in addition to our usual distilled coverage of the shows, we will have the opportunity to view and report live and direct on several shows including i*a favourites Charlotte Ronson, Lacoste, Ready to Fish, Vivienne Hu and Parkchoonmoo.

As we're blogging remotely, posts may be slower than usual and we apologize in advance for any technical difficulties, but we hope you'll enjoy the extended Fashion Week coverage as much as we're looking forward to bringing it to you.

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Image  |   Erica Weiner
This necklace made by Erica Weiner in collaboration with Amy Hamley, a Pittsburgh-based ceramicist is both functional and beautiful. Made from actual drill bits which have been cast in white, English porcelain and dipped in 24K gold or platinum, then fired again, each pendant is strung on a 25" gold-fill or sterling silver chain.  

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Image  |  Takumi Ota
Using traditional elements and techniques from wooden boat making, Jin Kuramoto has created Matsuso T, his new brand with the Nadia range, and a collaboration between Hiroshima’s expert carpentry workers and Jin Kuramoto's design studio.  Matsuso T includes a chair, a lounge chair, a dining table, a coat stand and side tables.  The boat-making techniques used can be seen in the overall design of the furniture, as well as in the harmonious blending of function and form.

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