Under Christopher Bailey, Burberry tried long and hard to rid itself of its "chav" associations. The collection of 106 looks (although we are only featuring the women's looks here) was aptly entitled "Tempest" given the firestorm one sweatshirt complete with attached noose caused, but more likely in reference to the political storm that is fast approaching and the uncertainty it will bring on all sectors of the British economy including fashion and design.
Nevertheless, Burberry are touting their Britishness proudly in the face of the country's imminent separation from the rest of Europe, and there can be no doubt where their loyalties lie. The house under Riccardo Tisci - who is known for his fondness of streetwear - has decided to embrace, if somewhat tongue in cheek or nosltalgicly, their previous popularity with this 1990s inspired collection. With its greasy, slicked down hair and extravagant baby curls, Tisci showed layered rugby t-shirts with coded anti-establishment references, corseted tops worn over polo shirts (it is the 1990s after all), and a nod to athleisure with tracksuit bottoms. Short slip dresses were covered in embellished buttons that declared their love of London, and there was a definite edge and whiff of street around the collection which looked south of the river for its inspiration. The infamous Burberry check was unapologetically resurrected and placed front and centre of the collection, used on trench coats, jumpers and padded jackets, and dresses. There were gorgeous shearling coats and jackets, track suits, pea coats, fur collars and muffs. Bags were casually slung across the body and worn as harnesses. We loved the duvet-like statement coat in liquid silver. Ostrich feathers made an appearance on short camel coat.
Nevertheless, Burberry are touting their Britishness proudly in the face of the country's imminent separation from the rest of Europe, and there can be no doubt where their loyalties lie. The house under Riccardo Tisci - who is known for his fondness of streetwear - has decided to embrace, if somewhat tongue in cheek or nosltalgicly, their previous popularity with this 1990s inspired collection. With its greasy, slicked down hair and extravagant baby curls, Tisci showed layered rugby t-shirts with coded anti-establishment references, corseted tops worn over polo shirts (it is the 1990s after all), and a nod to athleisure with tracksuit bottoms. Short slip dresses were covered in embellished buttons that declared their love of London, and there was a definite edge and whiff of street around the collection which looked south of the river for its inspiration. The infamous Burberry check was unapologetically resurrected and placed front and centre of the collection, used on trench coats, jumpers and padded jackets, and dresses. There were gorgeous shearling coats and jackets, track suits, pea coats, fur collars and muffs. Bags were casually slung across the body and worn as harnesses. We loved the duvet-like statement coat in liquid silver. Ostrich feathers made an appearance on short camel coat.
The streetwear latterly morphed into more sophisticated fare which is generally our preference. Elegant suits, beautiful day dresses and separates (although the colours were to our mind slightly drab) closed the show. Poncho-like capes, coats with wide, sailor collars and lapels, we wished the entire collection could have been this section but clearly Burberry are looking at diversifying their offering in the face of a rather uncertain future for Britain.
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