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Mary Katrantzou showed Volume with a capital V. With a full, rounded shape similar to the ruffles and feathers we saw at rising star Tomo Koizumi's show in New York last week, the dresses here were heavily beaded and featured a sort of swirling, mystical landscape, a direct reference to the theme of the natural elements - earth, air, fire and water - that were central to this collection. One dress featured scale-like pailettes which shimmered like water, others wore pieces that referenced the parched, cracked earth on coats and boots. The lightness of air was in all probability evoked by the ostrich feather coats and dresses and flames were rendered by the exuberant neck ruffles and asymmetrical ruffled scarves that trailed down the models bodies. Katrantzou also showed wide, shawl-like collars, leggings under skirts.


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