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The first solo show on the island of Bermudian artist Gherdai Hassell is currently underway at the Bermuda National Gallery entitled I Am Because You Are. Hassell was driven by an exploration of her heritage and examines the impact of slavery in Bermuda. 

A sign of optimism or evidence of scarce resources, either way hemlines will be high next season.


For his graduate project from the Tokyo University of the Arts, Ryunosuke Okazaki created a collection consisting of three couture dresses in bold colours and shapes titled JomonJomon that are informed by Japanese Jōmon-era pottery and Shinto, an ancient religion that originated in Japan


Located in the mountains of Trinidad and Tobago is the Saut D’Eau House, a serene, open plan residence designed by Ackee Workshop to suit the lines and contours of the land.

 

These creations of Thai-born, Australian-based ceramicist Somchai Charoen were part of the Preliminary Structures exhibition held in Melbourne earlier this year featuring seven contemporary makers and designers working in moulding and casting techniques across ceramic and glass disciplines. 
She Changed the World (Detail), Alice Coutet
We have been featuring the Charman Prize consistently pretty much since its inception, and this year marks the 10th iteration of the show. We often approach it with more than a little trepidation because Bermuda is the muse and for an island that is only twenty-one square miles it can often be a stretch to come up with new and interesting ideas. 

Fables, fairy tales, cherubs and fantastical creatures are scattered throughout this strong collection from Patou featuring bucket hats, winged collars and dandified touches such as the extended lace cuffs. Prints were sourced from the archives of the great French artist-illustrators Christian Bérard and Gustave Moreau.

Some of the colours and fabrics used by Alberta Ferretti in this collection for Spring 2022 were not terribly typical of the season, but she used a butterfly motif that is evocative of rebirth and newness so perhaps that was her one concession to the mood. 


Beading and broderie anglaise combined with streamlined tailoring evoked a modern femininity at Erdem where both men's and women's looks traversed the runway seamlessly. There were hints of Holly Golightly in the large-brimmed hats and narrow silhouettes but our favourites were the black-and-white sketched floral print on dresses, shirts and trousers. 

Although not conventionally beautiful, this collection from Richard Malone felt too important to ignore. His use of ruching and frills, of tailoring and draping made for an incredible mix of looks.

 

Nothing groundbreaking here, but evocative of a mood is this collection by Emilia Wickstead which manages to reference springtime in the English countryside and a bygone era.

The minimalist and faint hearted need not apply, but there’s no denying that there was something beautiful and uplifting in this collection.

What to do when you are best known for one iconic item and it is expected that this piece will feature heavily in any collection you show? Riccardo Tisci tackled this problem head on by effectively taking the Burberry trench apart.