We're not terribly familiar with this designer but we loved the elongated silhouettes and mix of fabrics and colours. De Vincenzo has been described as both a minimalist and a maximalist and the truth of that statement could perhaps been seen in the restrained way he layered cropped trousers with three-quarter long sleeveless vests, little sprigged blouses, heavy coats and textured tights without it ever being overwhelming.
Image | Daniele Oberrauch |
Simple refined elegance and luxury from Tod's where the clothes sent down the runway by Alessandra Facchinetti included cropped trousers, padded jackets (often topped with a thick fur collar) and pleated skirts. The outfits were accompanied by heavy chain necklaces with tassels or fur charms.
Image | Alessandro Lucioni/Imaxtree |
We can't believe we're featuring Versace, a fashion house that is usually the antithesis of our taste, but there you go. In a major departure from the typical overworked, baroque silk, body-conscious offerings, Versace showed a sporty collection where the clothes were figure-hugging but concealed more than they revealed even with all the strategically placed zippers. Tones were largely subdued and Versace is one of the few designers we've seen successfully incorporate Pantone's colours of the year - rose quartz and serenity - and further to have done so in a way that wasn't sickly or cloying, largely because they were combined with acid brights.
Image | Daniele Oberrauch |
Perhaps one of our favourites so far, Fendi is another fashion house that has embraced maximalism this season. Following closely on the news that scientists have at last detected gravitational waves, the unifying theme throughout the collection came in the form of rippling lines that appeared as frills on dresses, blouses, boots and even bags. The collection, which included floral motifs that were lifted from 18th century Japanese botanical paintings, was unapologetically sumptuous.
Image | Danielle Oberrauch/Imaxtree |
A fantastical collection from Gucci with extremely ornate 1970s-inspired looks interspersed with more sedate ones. The ethos was more, and the show notes referred to the overall inspiration as an amalgamation of old Hollywood glamour and Gucci’s "nu-glam". The result was a vertiginous mix of pattern, texture and colour. Every possible idea was included: feathers, fringing, jacquard, tulle, fur, sequins and pompons. A sinuous snake wound its way through the collection as did the tiger, and accessories were key. Models sported multiple, oversized rings on their fingers and pearls adorned the front of knitwear, blouses and dresses.
Flowers were the predominant theme throughout Victoria Beckham's diffusion line Victoria where heavily embroidered jumpers, skirts, denim and even skirt suits were covered in a profusion of blooms. The floral tributes were broken up with the introduction of a few checked pieces, but for the most part nature seemed to be the pervasive theme. We particularly liked the skirt and dress with the floral impression and the roll-neck sweater with the unusual loop treatment.
One of the more highly-anticipated shows of the week because of the upcoming changes to its buying schedule, Burberry showed a fantastic mix of patterns and fabrics including sequins, lamé, jacquards and glossy python. There seemed to be a half-hearted attempt to imbue the collection with a 70s glam rock vibe that we don't necessarily think was there. Much in evidence however were the patterned tights and clashing checks, stripes and textures that were seen at the Zimmerman, Altuzarra and Libertine shows in New York. Which is not to say that the show wasn't youthful and fun. We particularly liked the shiny patent trench coat, the shearling jacket and the glammed-up athleisure.
Image | Matteo Volta |
Falling firmly within the dreamscape camp populated by Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou, is Temperly London where tattoo-esque hearts and flowers, swallows, anchors and tigers abound in this darkly gothic collection. With the romanticism of the sea and sailors firmly at its centre, the designer showed tiered and flounced skirts and dresses with flared and extended cuffs and pussy bows on modified sailor shirts. Capes and military-styled coats with frogging and scrollwork provided an effective contrast to the feminine clothes.
Image | Matteo Volta |
As with David Koma's collection, metallic studs featured prominently at Mulberry where newly installed creative director Johnny Coca showed beautiful wool felt coats and capes with contrasting stitching, platform shoes and boots and, of course, gorgeous handbags in all shapes and sizes.
Image | Matteo Volta |
Several of the London shows like those at Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou are being recognised for their dreamlike, quality but Emilia Wickstead's collection is remarkable for its simple, straightforward practicality. Skirts and dresses were either ankle- or floor-length and trousers flared gently around ankles. Sheer stripes accentuated the volume of her dresses but ensured that they maintained a certain amount of lightness and fluidity. Wickstead showed for the first time denim dresses that were made interesting with the addition of cut outs, pleats or voluminous sleeves.
Image | Alessandro Lucioni |
There was a certain futuristic feel at David Koma where his sleekly modern, body-conscious silhouette and asymmetrical hems provided a stark contrast to the floaty, dreamlike fashions seen at many of the shows this season. Koma used metallic elements as a link throughout, be it as fasteners on belts, embellishments on halter necklines or bodices or stud work on skirts and dresses.
Image | Alessandro Lucioni |
From the moment the first model appeared with her centrally-parted 90s hair, we knew what decade Anya Hindmarch would be taking her inspiration from for this season. Hindmarch revisits the nostalgia of simpler two-dimensional arcade video games with her pixelated patterns and prints and Rubik's cube references. This collection focused largely on outerwear and accessories such as shoes and boots, hats and bags, and video game characters appear on all of these items in witty ways while lush strips of fur on sleeves and collars added a luxurious feel.
Image | Alessandro Lucioni |
Simone Rocha featured a collection of contrasts where tweed and beaded lace, tulle and fur were all beautifully juxtaposed. Largely devoid of colour, the muted tone of the clothes was relieved by lilac and red pieces. Overall, the silhouette consisted of softly draped shapes with full sleeves and exaggerated hips. Many of the pieces also had unfinished hems and trailing threads.
Image | Matteo Volta/Imaxtree |
Something of a rebirth at Mary Katrantzou with a collection that was enough of a departure from her usual style to keep her line feeling fresh and progressive. Continuing the trend of pattern-clashing that we saw in New York, we loved Katrantzou's mix of mini checks, lace and graphic elements as well as her clever styling trick of combining colourful sock-lets with open-toed sandals which will ensure that the strappy footwear can be worn for more than just one season while providing an interesting pop of colour. As with McQueen, butterflies featured prominently and so did stars and hearts. Butterflies were referenced literally or as stoles around shoulders or banding at the waist and stars were used effectively as cutouts on shoulders.
Image | Alessandro Lucioni |
We adored this collection from Holly Fulton whose black-and-white patterns brought London's pearly kings and queens to mind initially. We saw lots of layering - particularly dresses worn over trousers paired high-necked sweaters or mock turtlenecks - overalls and blouses and suit separates. Voluminous sleeves were a recurring theme as was a paisley pattern which covered the models from head to toe. In addition to the monochrome of the early pieces, Fulton's main colours included an earthy brown, olive green and shimmering pinks.
Image | Andrea Adriani/Imaxtree |
It felt like there was nothing new or innovative from the New York shows this season. Even Marc Jacobs who is one of the more trendsetting designers to show in that city failed to break new ground with his elongated and exaggerated silhouette. Designers appeared to keep to their usual aesthetic, some with more successful results than others. This included i*a favourite Delpozo where creative director Josep Font sent his usual mix of bright colours, volume and embellishment down the runway. The collection's main references included the science fiction film Metropolis and contemporary artist Daria Petrilli’s digital illustrations, both of which were reflected in three-dimensional details and embellishments on sleeves and bodices.
Sweet varsity high! We surprisingly liked this uncontroversial sports-themed collection from Coach. With an abundance of celestial motifs (perhaps a homage to one of the biggest movies of the past year) Coach somehow managed to combine sports- and Western-wear successfully in one collection. As was to be expected, the house's accessory game was as strong as ever and we particularly loved the perforated loafers and metallic boots.
Image | Daniele Oberrauch/Imaxtree |
We're wrapping up our anaemic look at New York before flying over to London today. First up, this fun and uncharacteristically youthful collection from American sportswear giant Michael Kors that saw bright colours, mini florals and traditional checks paired with feathered denim jeans and skirts, sparkle and texture.
Image | Valentino Red |
We are not fans of sheer clothing so while in theory several of these looks from Valentino Red should not appeal to us, we find in practice that they do. Valentino Red marries tough, military-inspired and folksy looks with edgy femininity showing scalloped edges and tailored jackets and coats. Imagery included aquatic themes such as mermaids and jellyfish as well as winter florals combined with broad stripes and text.
Image | Daniele Oberrauch/Imaxtree |
Always highly theatrical Thom Browne's presentation this season had the models wandering through what looked like a Victorian graveyard. The collection was true to form and featured spot on tailoring, cropped trousers and a deconstructed schoolgirl aesthetic. Along with the headgear which resembled a necktie taking flight around the models' heads, the clothes looked as though they had been whipped up in a windstorm and landed haphazardly on the models' bodies.
We are usually tripping over ourselves at this time of the year to get multiple posts up every day as we cover fashion week. This year however, the site has been uncharacteristically quiet not out of laziness but indifference. Honestly, not much on offer has excited us, but we are finally popping this season's cherry with a look at Libertine. The collection checks several of the common threads (pun intended) we've seen running through many of the collections for fall 2016 including clashing patterns, heavy embellishments on clothes and tights and lots of texture. We love the jewelled appliqués featuring broken cigarettes and other vices.
We don't usually cover couture, but we thought that on this, the eve of the ready-to-wear shows, we might feature two of our favourites from the recent Spring 2016 shows. First up: Schiaparelli who showed softly billowing Grecian gowns and separates with lighthearted touches in the form of root vegetables, legumes, seafood and fruit motifs.
We stumbled across the website for The Island House in the middle of last year shortly after it opened and were immediately intrigued by its concept. Completely unplanned but serendipitously, we were able to view and tour the hotel during a hours-long layover in Nassau late last year.
Developed as an offshoot of the Mahogany House restaurant, the hotel is situated in lush gardens around a beautifully appointed swimming pool. This is the second Caribbean hotel we visited in 2015 that is not located on the beach, but we do not think that fact detracts in any way from the experience as there is so much else on offer. Quiet luxury can be found everywhere and it is evident that art and design take precedence. Care has been taken to place local art throughout the property and the furnishings include pieces by Herman Miller and Dedon. The rooms are generously-sized, well-appointed and appeared to be extremely comfortable. In addition to the hotel rooms, cottages and apartments are available for longer let, and amenities include a spa, gym, padel court and the most stylishly appointed cinema we have ever seen in a hotel.
Special attention has even been taken with the landscaping, where a dearth of flowering plants meant the lush green vegetation really popped against the colours of the buildings. The absence of tropical flowers underscores, we think, the idea behind this hotel; one that has taken a detour from the usual and commonplace in its attempt to forge a more modern spin on tourism. Proving once again that bigger does not automatically equate to better, we love the intimacy of boutique hotels and make no bones about the fact that this is the direction we would prefer tourism in the Caribbean to be headed. The hotel has only recently opened, but we think it is an important and valuable addition to an island that is fast becoming overrun with casinos and megalithic, impersonal hotel properties.
Image | Helene Hjorth |
This pretty wooden swing for infants is an update on the traditional. Made by Danish designer Helene Hjorth, whose surname means 'deer' in Danish, the Done by Deer swing is sparse but solidly constructed with good back support. The swing can easily be attached from the ceiling or a doorframe using hangers and would make a beautiful addition to any minimalist or monochromatic interior. The swing is made from wood and nylon rope and is suitable for indoor use only.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)