Simone Rocha, one of our most anticipated shows of the London calendar, did not disappoint. Taking the lines of a Louise Bourgeois poem as a starting point, the clothes in this collection were as intricate as ever. The overarching silhouette was the same: rounded shoulders, full skirts, double-breasted coats and dresses, but Rocha kept things interesting with her use of fabric of different weights and transparencies. She mixed heavier tapestry-like fabrics and embroidery with lighter organza layers, within which could be found spiderwebs, flowers and phallic shapes. One of the major tropes of the collection was her use of underwear as outerwear and cropped bustiers were worn on top of coats, blouses and dresses offering a hint voyeurism. The dichotomy between the fabrics and imagery of the collection reflect Rocha's own conflict with representations of tenderness and sexuality.
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