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Many of the usual Thom Browne tropes were featured here. Seersucker fabric? Yes. Trompe-d'oeil? On practically every outfit. Towering platform shoes? Sure. Impeccable tailoring? Of course. But because of the way Browne chooses to dissect and recombine these elements you most certainly could never call his collections stale.

The decadence of Marie Antoinette and the court of Versailles provided his inspiration for Spring 2020 with a regal collection that paid homage to the dauphin prince. As dauphin is French for dolphin, the aquatic mammal could be found frolicking across his pastel-hued suiting and were converted into shoes and top-handled bags alongside Hector, the dog. Panniers added volume and models with their hair in towering hairstyles like the powdered wigs of the 18th century, had their waists cinched by visible corsetry. The showstopper of the collection had to be a pale blue seersucker number with a layered, swirling skirt that evoked the roiling sea complete with sailing ship.

Filippo Flor/Gorunway.com

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