Yannis Vlamos/Indigital.tv
We're going to post our reviews of Dior and Valentino back-to-back so you can draw your own conclusions regarding the similarity  (or not) of the aesthetic of the two Houses.

Maria Grazia Chiuri put on her first show for the House of Dior since leaving Valentino, and the sport of fencing was an obvious, if unusual, reference. The first few looks featured breastplate designs and jackets that were immediately recognisable as having been derived from the uniform of the sport. This was a the muted collection and no bright colours were shown. Unlined, sheer skirts layered over modesty shorts and obvious corsetry and boning were two staples used throughout. The light and airy skirts were often paired with more substantial sweaters and knitwear as a counterpoint.

Conspicuous branding appears to be making a comeback in Paris with several designers prominently displaying their name on clothes. At Dior, this was done by the means of athletic tape that was used to border straps, hems and even shoes and served as a direct reference back to the sport of fencing which Grazia Chiuri chose as a starting point. Our favourite looks included the tarot-card-inspired evening gowns with their tulle skirts. These dresses were covered in symbols of the dark arts and witchcraft, astrological signs and four-leaf clovers. In this time of change for the House of Dior, perhaps Grazia Chiuri was looking to the heavens for guidance.

Yannis Vlamos/Indigital.tv


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