We love these moulded rubber bags from the Spring 2018 collection of Xiao Li.

A sophisticated, monochromatic collection from Aquilano.Rimondi who looked to painter and sculptor Joan Miró for inspiration for the colours used. There was an abundance of tailored pieces and an interesting use of topstitching and texture whether it be via the loose knit layers draped over a dress or dresses in pleated patent leather. Torsos were defined by huge, cinched belts at the waist or hip.

We hesitated to feature this collection but something about it drew us in. Perhaps it was the fact that Bermudian model Lily Lightbourne headlined the show or maybe that her flower of choice was the distinctly tropical Hibiscus, one that doesn't often appear in high fashion circles. In any event, we loved the juxtaposition of the island flower on the thick coats and jackets or the fur pouches that were slung around the models' waists. It was a pretty heavy collection - literally and figuratively - for Spring that featured pretty patterns and a judicious use of fur.

We aren't into whimsy or overt femininity, but something about the freshness of Luisa Beccaria's collection really drew us in. She showed breezy printed chiffon dresses, embroidered tulle  and flowing skirts in stretch cotton ticking stripe. The fact that the feminine silhouettes were combined with masculine influences might have helped. Here, floral patterns were tempered with graphic dots and stripes all of which helped to moderate what could have otherwise been an overwhelmingly saccharine collection.

Sportmax has been doing athletic wear long before it became ubiquitous. As the more relaxed, diffusion branch of Max Mara, this history was still very evident and for Spring 2018 they saw no need to deviate showing dresses and separates in technical fabrics combined with a ribbed knit. Parkas, shorts and flowing skirts were paired with sweaters and leather bombers with striped, elasticated ribbed cuffs and hems. Skirts were split or raised for better mobility and we particularly loved the sheer dresses lined with floral prints. 

Poolside lounging from Pucci which featured their trademark print on flowing caftans, maillots, trousers and separates as well as a gorgeous dress with feathered sleeves.

We have a love-hate relationship with Prada. While we recognise the importance of the brand and its role as a trendsetter, we are often left underwhelmed by the actual collections. Sacrilege we know. 

This collection honoured the militant woman, and therefore it made sense that the tailoring - in the form of beautifully cut jackets and coats - took centre stage. These were shown with or without sleeves and in double- or single-breasted versions and included a gorgeous tweed coat with embellishments across the chest and on the shoulders. We also took note of the shiny plastic polka dotted Macintoshes. Arachnids crawled over chests and could be found on jumpers and vests. One obvious recurring theme was the use of cartoons and manga by female artists that were screen printed over shirts, some of which were worn backward or buttoned up the back. As with all of her collections, there was a lot to unpack from her use of textures to prints (be they zebra or leopard spot) to embellishments, none of which in theory should go together, but by some form of strange alchemy managed to.

In return to the 1980s and the days of power dressing, stripes met sheer layers in this exuberant collection from Fendi. A few of the dresses featured a rambling, abstract floral but most mixed bold lines and layering. For the most part, the looks had cutouts at shoulder and chest. There was also a return to the days of conspicuous consumption with the prominent placement of the Fendi logo on coats and bags.  If this collection is anything to go by, come Spring the Fendi woman will be ready for business.

Alberta Ferretti opened the show with maillots in unassuming black. The bodysuits were an inauspicious start to a fairly expected collection that consisted of draped dresses with Grecian influences, but deep cut necklines and exposed torsos provided these floor-length gowns with a modicum of interest. Slouchy knit dresses and separates followed, but the real showstoppers consisting of subtly coloured chiffon dresses embellished with feathers, evening separates (shorts provide the most comfort without sacrificing style) and lamé trousers brought up the rear. The looks were completed by lightweight nylon windbreakers - the perfect thing to stave off those Spring showers.