Always a highly anticipated show, this time Marc Jacobs can claim his collection to be a real feather in his cap, both literally and figuratively.
The last few months have seen a renewed interest in the iconic Spring 1993 grunge collection Jacobs designed for Perry Ellis, and there was some thought that he might incorporate a reference into his next collection, but Jacobs veered as far away from flannel as possible instead showing a collection that was refined and elegant and had more in common with that of Tomo Koizumi, the protégé he and his stylist Katie Grand helped launch earlier in the week: volume.
Rounded, dropped shoulders and a wide silhouette helped to mask the natural proportions of the models. While other designers this season have seemed to focus on lines that skim and elongate the body, Jacobs played with proportion and girth. He showed cloth coats and capes, shredded tulle party dresses, A-line skirts and crewnecks. Feathers were used to add heft but maintain lightness. Hats designed by milliner Stephen Jones also had an ornitho theme, and were perched on the top of most models' heads.
The overall result was a collection that was wearable and pretty which hasn't always been the case.
Jacobs' one reference to that Perry Ellis collection came at the very end when Christy Turlington, who had walked for him all those years ago, closed this show in an off-the-shoulder, nipped in party dress embroidered with glossy feathers.
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